Great Video on How to Espalier Fruit Trees (Video)
May 11th, 2012Benefits of espalier-training
February 17th, 2012There are several reasons for training a fruit tree as a fan against a wall or trellis:
- The fruit receives more light, which helps improve development of natural sugars and fruit colour.
- If you are training against a south-facing brick wall, the micro-climate allows you to grow varieties that would normally require a warmer climate.
- You are naturally restricting the crop compared with a free-standing tree, and this can also help to improve flavour.
- Protecting the tree e.g. from frost or birds, is relatively easy.
- As well as productive capacity, fans and espaliers have an appealing ornamental value in the garden.
Choice of variety and rootstock
All plums, mirabelles, peaches, nectarines, apricots, quinces and cherries can be grown as fans, but not as espaliers. In addition most apples and pears can also be trained as fans or espaliers, but avoid tip-bearing apple varieties. Since part of the reason for growing fruit trees in this way is to maximise flavour and especially sweetness, it is best to choose fruit tree varieties which will take full advantage. Dessert plums, pears, quinces, and premium apples are especially suitable, whereas you are likely to see less benefit from growing, for example, culinary apples or culinary plums this way.
For plums, mirabelles, apricots, peaches, nectarines the best rootstock is St Julien A
Espalier training
February 17th, 2012The espalier is a useful method of training fruit trees, and it is becoming increasingly popular in the garden because it is ideal for positions adjacent to a wall or a fence, and occupies a minimum space. It can also be used as an attractive separation or screen between different parts of a garden.
In the espalier system, the tree comprises a central stem and horizontal fruiting branches. It is very important to train the tree correctly in order to achieve a tree that produces good fruit on all the horizontal branches. The points set out below are the principles followed to achieve that objective.
Do not train the branches until the beginning of summer (mid may)- training them down to a horizontal position.
In the first year of training, you will form the first tier of the espalier, and therefore you will create a tree with three branches: the two side branches, and the upward leading branch. In mid-May, tie the two lower side branches to an angle of about 60 degrees from horizontal. At this stage, you can remove all other competing branches from the tree, so that growth will be concentrated in the three branches you need.
Wait until mid August, and only then, lower the two side branches to the horizontal. This timing is very important. If you lower the branches to the horizontal position too early in the season, the upright vertical leading branch will absorb all the nutrients and the first tier of the espalier will be too weak in future years.
During the last week of August, remove all surplus upright growth from the espalier frame work. Then cut a notch in the upright branch above the first horizontal tier, at a height corresponding to where you would like the next tier to be formed the following year. This is usually about 18 inches above the first tier. The depth of the notch should be about a third of the thickness of the upright branch. It stimulates the tree to produce branches at that point.
The following year, build the next layer of the espalier, following the same routine as the previous year Prune in Spring.
The following August, establish the final tier of the espalier, selecting two branches and training down to about a 90 degree angle.
The tree should be fertilized with a good quality tree feed. I use “Growmore”, always follow the instructions on the pack. Spread the product evenly over an area of 3 square feet around the base of the trunk.
During the growing season (May-October), keep the area under the tree free from weeds, and from grass.
A common mistake, and one that can have serious consequences, is forcing the tree to grow upwards too quickly, without giving enough time to properly establish the lower limbs of the espalier. The most useful espalier which requires least maintenance in later years, is a tree in which the diameter of the lower arms are of double thickness compared to the top arms of the espalier. Good quality fruit is then produced at all levels of the espalier, and not just on the top layer. When pruning in later years always remember shoots in an upright position always grow more strongly than more horizontal ones.
Limited Space
February 17th, 2012If you have limited space in your garden, or you don’t have a garden, it is perfectly OK to grow fruit trees in patio pots. Though it is different from growing trees in soil, trees in pots can crop successfully.
Like Bonsai trees, fruit trees will adapt to the size of the pot.
A fruit tree consists of a rootstock, onto which is grafted the variety of fruit. The best rootstock for the average garden is MM106, but if space is limited, EMLA 9 may be more suitable. In fact the rootstock determines the final tree size.
It should be remembered that different fruit varieties generate differing tree shapes. For example, apple trees are naturally more spreading, while pears and plums tend to be more vertical in their growth.
If the tree has been properly planted, and weeds are kept at bay in the area in which tree roots are trying to become established, new growth should appear during the summer months (the tree will have been planted during dormancy, from October to December). This new growth is the material available to form the tree’s framework.
At this early stage, pruning should be absolutely minimal, because pruning delays cropping. Minimal pruning is recommended for years 1, 2 and 3 after planting.
These operations should be carried out in the period from December to March..
Framework branches should be pruned only if growth has been weak. In this case, they should be cut back by a third of their length. The central leader should be pruned so that it is no higher than 10 inches of all the upright branches.
Planting an Apple Tree
February 17th, 2012Prepare the Soil
Preparing the soil is a task best done a month before planting so that the soil has time to settle. Dig a 2ft deep by 2ft square hole, incorporating as much organic material as possible.
If the tree is being planted in soil which has been fertilised for other crops, do not add more fertiliser, as this could result in tree growth at the expense of fruit.
When and How To Plant Apple Trees
Best months for planting are October to December.
Planting is simple – in basic terms, dig a hole large enough to easily take the roots, place the tree in the hole and cover the roots with soil up to the surrounding ground level. Simple, but bear in mind a few points.
The tree should be planted to the same depth as it was in the pot. Having planted the tree, firm down the soil using your boots to ensure the soil is in good contact with the roots. Water well if the conditions are dry.
Tie the trunk to the stake in one or two places using plastic ties available from garden centres. Do not use wire or anything which could cut into the tree trunk.
Espalier fruit and coping with bad weather
November 17th, 2011Recent bad weather in USA was not a gardener’s friend. The heavy, snow that fell on leaf-laden branches this past weekend caused massive destruction. Huge limbs snapped off mature trees while young trees and shrubs suffered ” fractures.”
Gardeners with young fruit trees growing in gardens, being trained to grow espalier style, where the branches are pruned in two directions only. Find the wind cautching the branches and twisting them, causing fracture.
Trees can heal themselves. Make a splint for fractured branches using two pieces of wood, duct tape, a piece of hose and a rope. Come spring, the break will be mended. If not, prune those branches off and give different shape. Trees can be very forgiving.
So if your shrubs and trees were damaged by the storm, don’t despair. Large hanging branches will have to be removed, but you might be able to salvage smaller trees and ornamental shrubs.
More great resources below
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Espalier Fruit Orchards – One of the 4 typologies of the project … – This typology fills enclosed yards and naked façades in the public space with fruit trees grown in beds along flat surfaces. The wires spalier along which the branches are led also support berry bushes and flowers, and the trees are trained such that their fruit can be harvested without the use of a ladder. The orchard beds are planted with officinal herbs and annual cover crops whose role it is to provide an early harvest whilst the fruit trees and berry bushes mature, and additionally to mitigate water use.
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Abbey House Gardens, Malmesbury | Elegance on a Shoestring – Oooh, we must go to the Naked Gardens, my sisters says. I look at her baffled, suddenly in that sentence I’ve found out a whole lot of new stuff about her, and I haven’t packed my cosi just incase’. Further probing and I found out she was talking about Abbey House Gardens, yes they do have optional naked days, and I’m not fessing up here to whether we took our clothes off or not.
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Gardening with Nature’s Crossroads » Blog Archive » Adding Fruit … – Forest garden: fruiting and herbaceous plants installed in a way that mimics a forest that contains a canopy, understory (shrubs) and an herbaceous layer. Potager or kitchen garden: a more formally defined garden which is composed of perennials, fruits, herbs and insectary plants that may or may not have an area for entertaining or relaxing. Edible landscaping: utilizing trees, shrubs or perennials within an established landscape or in place of a traditional landscape.
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Digging » Book review & giveaway: The Perennial Care Manual – New gardeners will find The Perennial Care Manual, Nancy Ondra’s latest collaboration with photographer Rob Cardillo, to be an essential reference. Everything you need to know about planning, planting, and caring for a perennial garden is here. In Part 1, titled Perennial Care Basics, Ondra explains in clear detail (with excellent illustrative photographs by Cardillo) how to plant, prune, divide, and propagate perennials, including plenty of tips for more-experienced gardeners as well.
Espalier fruit and coping with bad weather
November 9th, 2011Recent bad weather in USA was not a gardener’s friend. The heavy, snow that fell on leaf-laden branches this past weekend caused massive destruction. Huge limbs snapped off mature trees while young trees and shrubs suffered ” fractures.”
Gardeners with young fruit trees growing in gardens, being trained to grow espalier style, where the branches are pruned in two directions only. Find the wind cautching the branches and twisting them, causing fracture.
Trees can heal themselves. Make a splint for fractured branches using two pieces of wood, duct tape, a piece of hose and a rope. Come spring, the break will be mended. If not, prune those branches off and give different shape. Trees can be very forgiving.
So if your shrubs and trees were damaged by the storm, don’t despair. Large hanging branches will have to be removed, but you might be able to salvage smaller trees and ornamental shrubs.
Espalier Fruit Tree Shapes
October 26th, 2011Espaliered Fruit Tree
October 26th, 2011
Espalier, a French word derived from the Italian spalliera, which means “something to rest the shoulder (spalla) against,” it is the process of controlling plant growth in a flat plane, usually against a wall or fence, or along a free-standing trellis. Trees espaliered on a wall were often called wall trees or wall fruit.
The term espalier also refers to the plant itself grown in this way. Originally the term espalier defined only the trellis, or frame, on which the plant was trained.
The practice of espalier may go back to early Egypt, where tombs from about 1400 BC have been found with paintings of espaliered fig trees. In the middle ages in Europe, manuscripts depict espaliered fruit inside walled monastery gardens or castle courtyards economically bearing fruit without filling the limited open space.
The classic European styles can be traced back to the 16th centuries, where they were developed in the marginal climates of northern France & England for more efficient fruit production.
There are numerous espalier forms ranging from the very simple, free-flowing natural & informal designs to complicated formal patterns. The most common formal styles are candelabra, tiered, basket weave, fan, cordon, pinnate, palmate, or Belgiam or double lattice or diamond motif.
The wall tree or wall fruit system was meant to protect plants from wind or weather and, hopefully, to enable espaliered trees to bear fruit earlier than stand alone trees, either natural or espaliered.
Espaliered Pear Tree
Grow Apple trees
October 17th, 2011Apples have been grown for thousand’s
of years and are grown all over the world. These days the market is dominated
by a handful of varieties which large supermarkets push on to their customers
these can be very sweet and bland apples. Home gardeners that are not concerned
with shelf life or long harvest times are free to explore some of the older
varieties like that have fallen out of favour by mass producers.
Most apple trees will need at
least one other variety of apple to cross pollinate and produce fruit. Choose a
different variety of apple that flower at the same time to produce high yields.
Apple’s will grow in a wide variety of climates and soils. However there are
three main requirements for successful apple growing; they are full sun, cool
winters and drainage and do not like very humid conditions, salty soils or
ocean winds.
Trailing apple trees as espaliers
can maximize space and yield and also looks good in a smaller backyard. The
biggest threat to your apple tree is the codling moth. They are persistent and
larvae of the moth will burrow into the apple and leave a powdery rusty trail
behind after it’s gone. The codling moth can produce up to three generations in
one season making it a problem you can’t ignore.
The best time for pruning your
apple tree is in summer after the fruit has finished.